Information on House Rabbits.

Rabbits that live indoors are not only clean, easy to litter train and care for, but make affectionate indoor pets just like cats and dogs. There are considerations to take into account before bringing your bunny indoors, and once your bunny is accustomed to living indoors they rarely move back outside comfortably.

Back to top

Bunny Basics.

Before moving a rabbit indoors there is some basic equipment, which is required. You will need:

• A secure hutch/cage/pen.
• Suitable bedding.
• A litter tray with suitable litter.
• Toys.
• Treats.

If you are going to litter train your bunny the litter must be suitable - this means non-toxic as rabbits tend to chew things whilst toileting! It needs to be absorbent and it should not be dusty as dust may irritate your rabbit's eyes.

It is important that house rabbits get adequate levels of fibre and protein to maintain good health. It is a good idea to give high fibre diets to indoor rabbits, as they do not get the opportunities to forage. If you need to change your rabbits diet then is should be done gradually over a period of about one week. You do this by mixing in small amounts of new food with the old until you are putting in more new food than old.

Back to top

House Training.

Rabbits are very territorial animals and therefore require a space of their own. This makes litter training very easy as rabbits use droppings to mark their territory. Respecting their territory also means not cleaning out their living quarters when the rabbit is in them, also when possible refilling food and water when the rabbits is out.

Just like any animals when you introduce them into a new environment they need time to settle in. This means shutting your rabbit in its pen for a few days so that they get used to household sights, smells and noises.

Back to top

Litter Training.

Although rabbits are relatively quick learners in the department, you must not expect miracles. You can help by putting the litter tray near the back of the pen and then placing food and water to the front of the tray.

*HINT* Putting hay in front of the litter tray can sometimes help, as rabbits like to munch on something whilst they defecate!

If you notice that your rabbit is toileting elsewhere you can move the tray there, as rabbits tend to be creatures of habit and normally defecate in the same favoured area.

Back to top

Bunny Proofing.

Before letting your bunny out into your house there are a few things to take into consideration. You must make your house bunny proof - rabbits are great chewers so you need to cover your electric wires in plastic tubing or piping. Also pick things up off the floor such as slippers that you don't want bunny to chew! Provide plenty of stimulation for your bunny to prevent boredom, such as empty upturned boxes, paper rolls etc.

Once you are happy your house is bunny proof then you can let him out. Open the door and either coax him out with a treat or allow him to come out when ready.

*HINT* The first time you let your bunny out it is better to do so before a meal so that there is a bigger incentive to return to his cage.

Back to top

Neutering.

It is recommended that house rabbits be neutered for many reasons. It makes them easier to litter train and it also helps with their temperament. Other problems include bucks spraying and territory marking with droppings. They may also try to mount unsuspecting bystanders by such as legs, feet and the cat!! Neutering ages are around 4-6 months.

Back to top